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Helmet Safety Ratings, What Do They Encompass; DOT, ECE And Snell Explained

A crash helmet is probably the most important accessory from a passive safety perspective on a two-wheeler. Active safety is equally important, and well-engineered, modern motorcycles with rider aids such as ABS and traction control go a long way in enhancing the safety net for the rider. In the unfortunate case of an accident, however, your safety gear is the only barrier between you and physical harm. In the unfortunate event of a crash, a helmet, covering the all-important part of your body, the head, is the single most important safety equipment protecting the rider. Now, to ensure that the helmets sold in certain countries and continents comply with some minimum quality and safety requirements, there are some technical certifications that these helmets have to carry. As of today, there are three helmet safety standards in the world which are very prevalent. The first one is the U.S. DOT (Department of Transportation) certification. Every helmet to be used on the road in the United States needs to carry this certification. The ECE (the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe) standard is a certification for most of the European countries, and is recognized by well over 50 countries, as well as by most racing organizations in the world. In addition to these two government regulated certifications, there is also the Snell certification, which is optional, and issued by the Snell Memorial Foundation – a private non-profit testing organization. You also have the SHARP certification in the UK, while for Australia there is the CRASH certification system. Since the last two certifications aren’t as popular as the former three, in this article, we will restrict our discussion only to what DOT, ECE and Snell helmet certifications entail. We will discuss in detail the tests that the helmets vying for these certifications have to undergo. We’ll also broadly discuss as to what are the differences in the testing methodology adopted by DOT, ECE and Snell helmet certifications. Let’s get going then!
To start with, while all three certifications are somewhat different in terms of their test methodology, there are many similarities too. The test helmets, for example, while being crash tested are often strapped on to a head form in all three tests. These head forms are essentially a dummy head, somewhat like the crash test dummies used in crash testing for cars. The shape of these head forms is sometimes different for different testing organizations, though in all cases, they are equipped with scientific instruments to precisely measure the damage sustained upon impact.

DOT Helmet Certification

The Department of Transportation (DOT) standard is specific to the United Nations of America. It is overlooked and enforced by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) of the country, although the certification is widely accepted worldwide as a seal of trust for helmet safety. The helmets conforming to the DOT standards should meet specific quality requirements from a manufacturing standpoint, and should also pass certain crash, penetration and retention system tests.

The test helmets contending to achieve the DOT certification are made to drop on two different varieties of surfaces, or anvils, from a pre-set height. The resultant G-force, upon crash, simulates a crash scenario, and the impact is measured using scientific tools. Under DOT, the crash test is conducted twice on every test helmet to simulate multiple impacts during a single crash. In addition to a crash test, a penetration test is also conducted using a hard, pointed object to ensure that sharp objects don’t manage to pierce through the shell of the helmet. In addition, the straps of the helmet are tested for their strength and ability to hold the helmet in place during a collision. After all, if a helmet flies off during a crash, no amount of strength in its shell would be of any use to the rider. The helmets carrying DOT certification should also allow a peripheral vision not less than 105 degrees from the middle of the helmet. Any projections on the surface of the helmet cannot be more than 5mm.

Talking specifically about the DOT test procedure, the test helmet is dropped from a fixed height of 1.83 meters, to generate a G-force equivalent of 400G, and made to crash upon flat as well as spherical anvils. For the penetration test, a pointed striker is dropped onto the helmet to test if it manages to pierce through the shell and the EPS liner. If the striker makes any contact with the head form or causes any other damage to it, the helmet fails the test. The retention system test puts the helmet’s retention straps under stress. The load on the straps starts at 22.7kg, is applied for 30 seconds and is progressively increased to 136 kg for 120 seconds. The retention system should not displace more than a specified limit to pass the test.

An important aspect of the DOT certification, and something for which it is often criticized as well, is that a helmet manufacturer doesn’t need to get a DOT Certification from the NHTSA in order to put the helmets on sale in the market. The system works on the principle of self-certification, where the manufacturers test their helmets by themselves, and label them as DOT certified without any interference or monitoring by the government agency. Helmets on sale in the market are then randomly picked by the NHTSA and tested for their compliance with DOT standards. If a helmet on sale fails the DOT test, the entire batch has to be removed from the market. The penalties can be as high as US$ 5000 for every defective helmet. Since the penalties are so high, legitimate helmet manufacturers do test their helmets before releasing them in the market with DOT certification. A loophole, however, with this system is that if a manufacturer sells a defective model without proper testing, the helmets in the market with the certification pose a risk to those wearing them. The buyers of such helmets are unsafe until the flaw with the helmet is discovered and rectified.

ECE Helmet Certification

Deriving its name from the United Nations ‘Economic Commission of Europe’, the ECE helmet safety standard is the most prevalent worldwide. Over 50 countries require the helmets sold in their region to carry this certification. Not just that, the ECE certification is approved for almost all competitive motorsport events overlooked by bodies such as AMA, WERA, FIM, CCS, Formula USA, MotoGP and many more. While the basic methodology for testing helmets under ECE guidelines is somewhat similar to that of DOT, it is often, arguably, considered more stringent than its American counterpart. It’s acceptability in renowned motorsport is also a reason why a lot of helmet buyers prefer it over DOT.

A major difference between DOT and ECE certification is that while DOT simulates two impacts in the same location on the helmet, ECE does this only once. However, it is generally accepted that a DOT certified helmet would pass the ECE test, and vice versa. Having said that, ECE testing is arguably considered the most up-to-date and extensive by many. A factor that probably adds to its perceived ‘additional’ credibility is the additional tests that the ECE certified helmets undergo to win the certification. In addition to the tests that we mentioned above as a part of the DOT regulation, an ECE certified helmet also has to undergo testing for abrasion resistance. The chin strap material is tested for slippage, and the retention system also has to undergo a higher load, which is over 300 kg. The shell of the helmet under ECE is tested for deformation under a weight of 68 kg, and the visor is treated as an integral part of the helmet under these regulations.

Snell Helmet Certification

Unlike ECE and DOT, which are government bodies for helmet certification, the Snell Memorial Foundation is a private, non-profit, independent organization which works towards enhancing rider or driver safety by facilitating creation and testing of better, safer helmets. The Snell Certification is named after William “Pete” Snell, a famous race car driver who died after a crash owing to head injuries. Pete was wearing a helmet that complied with the safety norms of that time, though it wasn’t enough to save his life. Snell specifications for helmet safety are updated every five years. The most recent ones are Snell, M2015 which are very similar to the M2010 guidelines.

Generally speaking, Snell is supposed to be a superior helmet safety specification, as the helmets receiving the certification have to undergo a wider range of tests, which are considered more rigorous, if not more effective in the case of a crash. Since Snell is a non-profit organization, the certification is voluntary for helmet makers, unlike DOT or ECE, which are mandatory. Another big difference in the functioning of the Snell Memorial Foundation is that it not only tests helmets post production, but also helps manufacturers with testing during the design and prototyping process to create better, safer helmets.

Do share this article with your friends to educate them about helmet safety and the importance of wearing a safety certified helmet. If you liked this informative article, do use one of the social networks to spread awareness. We’d love it if you tagged us on any of the social networks with a link of the article embedded within. Ride safe!

O And X-ring Chain Maintenance - Do They Need Cleaning And Lubing? All You Need To Know

It is no secret that motorcycle chains are a vital part of a motorcycle’s drivetrain. In fact, to watch this series of linkages in action, transferring monstrous amounts of power from the engine to the rear wheel, enabling the machine to achieve manic acceleration and top speeds, is a sight to behold. Incredibly durable and is built to take abuse, motorcycle chains are some of the most stressed components on any two-wheeler. While the older chains require a lot of maintenance and care in the form of constant cleaning and lubrication, modern O and X-ring chains come pre-lubricated on the inside and are sealed to stay well-oiled on the inside. Having said that, the exterior of these chains still has to weather the elements. Motorcycle users often wonder whether they need to clean or lube these modern chains at all. While essentially maintenance-free, the O and X-ring chains need their share of care to keep serving you in a trouble-free manner. Before we discuss the maintenance of O and X-ring chains, let’s first try and understand what makes them unique, and how these two varieties of motorcycle chains are different.

O-ring chains

O-ring chains were derived from the older and standard non-O-ring chains. The non-O-ring chains had an issue wherein there was a lot of metal-on-metal contact between the link plates, and the chain could not easily retain lubricant. It also tends to trap dirt and debris around the pin. This meant that the non-O-ring chains required regular maintenance in cleaning and lubing. They didn’t last too long either and had to be replaced frequently. The O-ring chain solved all these issues by adding an O-ring rubber inserted between the inner and outer link plates to act as seals. When you look at its cross-section, it gets the name O-ring from its cylindrical shape. O-ring chains are self-lubricating and help seal the lubricant inside the links of the chain to keep the pins moving freely. This helps avoid the metal-on-metal friction that the non-O-ring chains are plagued by. The seals ensure that dust and debris are kept away from the inner parts of the chain. O-rings are definitely superior to the non-O-ring chains in every way, except that the transmission loss on a well-cleaned and lubed O-ring chain is significantly less owing to the additional drag created by the rubber rings. Though they are much more expensive, they are worth every penny due to the peace of mind they offer and the low amount of maintenance they require. Here are some advantages of O-ring chains over their non-O-ring counterparts:

● O-ring chains keep dust and debris away from the pin. The non-O-ring chains were notorious for trapping dust between the linkages, which, when ignored, resulted in the loss of power and efficiency. The rubber inserts that act as seals help the O-ring chains keep the external elements. While theoretically, a clean, well-lubed non-O-ring performs better in terms of transmission efficiency, in real-world conditions, it generally doesn’t, as dirt and muck stuck between the linkages causes friction, making it less efficient in practice. O-ring chains, therefore, offer an overall better solution.

● O-ring chains require much less maintenance due to their self-lubricating properties. They are also much easier to clean since all the dust and muck is collected on the outside and not trapped inside, unlike the non-O-ring chains, which are tedious to clean

● O-ring chains last much longer than the non-O-ring chains, saving motorcycle owners money and minimising their hassles over the longer term

X-ring chains

Just like O-ring chains are a derivative of non-O-ring chains, X-ring chains are a derivative of the O-ring chains. The X-ring further improves upon the strengths of the O-rings. Like the O-rings, the X-ring fits between the plates and over the pin that connects them. However, instead of an ‘O’ cross-section, the X-ring has an ‘X’ shaped cross-section. This addresses a flaw with the O-ring chains, i.e. friction and loss of power, which is caused as the O ring deforms under pressure from the inner and outer chain plates, consequently causing drag. The X-ring has a much less surface area, and therefore much less friction than an O-ring chain. An X-ring chain, thus, offers all the qualities of an O-ring chain with a lot less friction, and often, even better durability.

Here are some advantages of an X-ring chain over an O-ring chain:

● When subjected to pressure, the X-ring holds its shape much better since it essentially twists when tension is applied. On the other hand, O-rings would deform over time when tension is applied between the plates for too long due to their tendency to flatten

● Unlike O-rings which squish down when subjected to tension, X-ring chains retain their lubrication better and for longer

● X-ring chains last longer than O-ring chains, thanks to the benefits it carries over the O-rings. While O-ring chains last long, X-ring chains are even better when it comes to longevity

● These advantages, along with lesser friction, results in higher performance output. If performance and durability is your priority, X-rings are the way to go despite their higher cost compared to O-rings

Do X and O-ring chains need cleaning and lubing?

Both O-ring and X-ring chains can offer extended service life requiring very little maintenance thanks to their design, which seals the lubrication and protects their free movement against dirt. They are a far cry from the non-O-ring chains, which require a lot of attention, frequent cleaning and lubrication. However, to perform optimally, both O and X-ring chains still need cleaning and lubrication on the outside at regular intervals. Even though the seals keep the inner components of the chain lubricated and safe from dirt and debris, the external components such as the plates often get covered in muck and dirt, which restricts the chain’s free movement. Therefore, it is advisable to have these chains cleaned from the outside every once in a while, and have them sprayed with good chain lube.

To clean these chains, all you need to do is rinse them with soapy water, remove any hard, stubborn dirt with the help of a used toothbrush and use a soft cloth to dry them. For lubrication, spray the chain evenly with lube spray. Always go for a reputable brand of motorcycle chain lube, as using substandard lubricating agents may cause damage to the rings, making them lose their sealing properties. You can follow this simple process of cleaning and lubing the chains every 1,000 kilometres if you are very particular about the health of your motorcycle chain. If you are not riding in too dirty, dry or mucky conditions, keep an eye on the chain and have it cleaned and lubricated as it starts appearing visibly dry or dirty. You might not need to clean or lube your motorcycle for up to 3,000 kilometres in clean conditions. The key is to keep an eye out for the physical state of your motorcycle’s chain and care for it as soon as you notice dirt or dryness on its surface.

Your O and X-ring chains are designed to serve you for very long intervals, requiring minimal maintenance and care on your part. Depending on usage and weather conditions, a well-made O-ring chain would easily last you for 20,000 to 30,000 kilometres. An X-ring chain would last even longer. Just clean and lube them when they appear too dirty or dry, and they’ll serve you faithfully for years.

How To Care For Your Motorcycle’s Disc Brakes

Things that go fast should come to a halt with equal urgency when the need arises. It’s for this simple reason that high performance motorcycles come equipped with high performance brakes. And when it comes to braking efficiency, disc brakes have proven their mettle as the most reliable system for dropping the anchors. There was a time when disc brakes were used only on higher capacity motorcycles. However, with an enhanced emphasis on safety by the regulatory authorities, disc brakes have made their way on lower capacity motorcycles as well. Now while disc brakes are quite dependable and require minimal upkeep, there is a certain degree of maintenance which is required to keep them performing optimally. In this article, we’ll tell you about all the important aspects of disc brakes which you need to look after in order to keep them performing like new.

Keep The Brake Fluid Reservoir Topped Up

The brake fluid reservoir for the front disc is usually mounted on the handlebar while the reservoir unit for the rear disc can either be found behind the right or left hand side heel plate attached to the footpeg. The brake fluid reservoir has a sight glass which allows you to check the fluid level. Make sure that you keep the brake fluid topped up to the correct level at all times. If a top up is needed, carefully open the lid and fill it up. It is advisable that you don’t let the fluid drop on the body panels of your motorcycle as brake fluid is corrosive in nature and can spoil the paintwork.

Bleed The Brakes Periodically

Bleeding the brakes is a process aimed at removing the air trapped inside the hydraulic brake system on your vehicle. Since air is highly compressible, any air bubbles trapped in the brake lines can lead to a limp feel in the brake lever along with weak and inefficient braking performance. To remove the air in your brake system, open up the bleeder screw placed on the caliper and then press the brake lever. It will pressurize the system, letting out the air and some brake fluid as well. The bleeder screw shouldn’t remain open when the brake lever is released or else, it will suck in more air. As the brake fluid is discharged, the master cylinder reservoir should be topped up so that it doesn’t run out of fluid.

Check Brake Pads Regularly

Brake pads are the most abused part of the braking equipment as they bite on the disc rotor, and have to deal with extremely high levels of friction and heat. They undergo a lot of stress and a regular check on their health and wear is of paramount importance to keep the braking system in good health. There is an inspection hole in the dust shield on the caliper to help you look at the brake pads inside. If you think that the disc pads need a replacement, do it right away. Not replacing the disc pads in a timely manner can expose the disc rotor to the metal plate holding the brake pads in place and may damage the entire assembly. Needless to say, replacing the entire brake assembly as opposed to just the pads would cost you a much higher sum of money.

Keep The Disc Rotors Clean

Riding in the dirt and slush could result in dirt and grime accumulating around the disc rotor and in the calliper assembly. If you notice a gradual drop in stopping power of your motorcycle, it might be because of all the grime that might have found its way inside the braking assembly. Although a water jet-spray should do the job, if you want to give the rotor a thorough clean-up, you can use a specialized brake cleaner. You can also use Isopropyl alcohol based solutions but stay a mile away from gasoline, kerosene and diesel because they are all derived from petroleum and might leave oil residue behind, drastically reducing the braking efficiency.

Rub The Brake Pads When Required

It is very common for grime to get accumulated on the top surface of the brake pads, thus considerably decreasing the braking efficiency. If they still have some life in them, you can take a sanding paper and rub the disc pads against it to clean the dirt and expose the new, more efficient layer of the brake pad for optimal braking performance.

Check Caliper Alignment

Sometimes the brake pads rub against the rotor even when the brake lever is not engaged. This generally happens because of bad caliper alignment. Ensure that the calipers are properly aligned to ensure longevity of both brake-pads and rotors.

Inspect Calipers periodically

In modern-day motorcycles, disc brake calipers can be had in two flavours – older style floating calipers and the more modern, and expensive, fixed calipers. Oftentimes, the braking issues you’re experiencing with your motorcycle may be attributed to the degeneration of calipers, or some other fault pertaining to the calipers. For caliper inspection, you should take a good look at the mounting points. You would want to look for cracks, stripped threads, corrosion and galling. Accelerated brake-pad deterioration is also a very convincing sign of issues with brake calipers.

Bed-In The Brakes

If you have just replaced the disc pads of your braking equipment, it is advisable to bed them in first before embarking on a long ride. Just like a new motorcycle’s engine needs running-in to perform at its full potential, the disc pads need bedding in too. Find an empty stretch, build up some speed and squeeze the brake lever progressively to bring the motorcycle to a near stop. Accelerate again from this point, and repeat the process eight to ten times to build some heat within the system and help the brakes bed in properly.

Tips And Techniques To Clean Your Motorcycle Faster

As motorcycle enthusiasts, we always want our motorcycles to appear clean and shiny like they just rolled out of a showroom, don’t we? While some of us always manage to find time to keep our beloved machines spick and span, a few others amongst us are not as driven about their two-wheelers’ appearance. Other reasons aside, a perception that cleaning a motorcycle takes a very long time is sometimes the reason why some of us don’t get down to giving our steeds the care they deserve. Cleaning a motorcycle thoroughly requires you to take some time out; some techniques can significantly help you cut down this time. In this article, we share some practical tips to help you keep your motorcycle shiny as new in the least amount of time possible.

Always keep the entire cleaning kit in one place

A large part of the time spent cleaning the bike goes into putting together all the paraphernalia. To avoid the wastage of time, always keep the required things to clean your motorcycle in one place. By doing this, you won’t have to go hunting for the equipment every time you wish to clean your motorcycle. To name a few basics, you will need two buckets, a couple of clean rags or pieces of a microfibre cloth, a sponge, auto detergent, toothbrush, chain cleaner/lube and polish.

Get done with the dirtiest parts first

To make the process easier, it is advisable to clean the dirtiest parts first. This will ensure that the accumulated dirt and grime does not splatter after you are done cleaning the rest of the motorcycle. Getting the dirt and grease off of your motorcycle’s chain first is always a smart move. You should use a proper chain cleaner for this process. After getting done with the chain, you should move to other greasy, grimy parts like the engine casing, underbelly, brake discs and suspension.

Wet the motorcycle and let it rest for a while

Wet the motorcycle using a water hose or a bucketful of water. After splashing the motorcycle with clean water, let it rest for a minute or two so that the water can reach all the nooks and crannies and help dissolve the grime to an extent. The time spent letting the moisture do its job loosening the dirt will save you the precious time you would otherwise have spent scraping the dirt off laboriously.

Always wash the bike in the shade

It is advisable to wash your motorcycle in a shaded place so that the water does not dry up quickly and does not leave watermarks in the process. This will save you the extra effort you would otherwise make to re-clean or buff the stain marks, which often appear after you are all done.

Use auto-specific detergent to expedite the cleaning process

Using plain water or a regular detergent to clean your motorcycle is time-consuming to eliminate some stubborn accumulations in places. Using a specialised, auto-specific detergent helps remove the tough grease and dirt with less effort, making the process faster.

Go top-down

One handy tip to save some precious minutes while washing a motorcycle is to start from the top and work your way down. Not following this process often increases the effort as one has to re-clean or wipe the already cleaned parts. The splatter from the top often makes the lower parts dirty again, requiring you to clean them afresh. Go top-down every time, irrespective of the area that you are cleaning. For instance, while cleaning the front end of your motorcycle, always begin cleaning the windshield, moving down to the front wheel while cleaning everything in between in a uniform manner.

Always keep two buckets handy

It is advisable to use two buckets of water to save time. One of the buckets should contain soap water, while the other should be filled with clean water. Dipping the dirty sponge or rag in soapy water over and over again without getting rid of the grime might damage your paint. If you love your motorcycle, you will realise this midway while cleaning your bike and will end up wasting time having to refill the water, possibly more than once. Having a bucket of clean water handy lets, you quickly rinse the sponge and get through with cleaning the bike in one go.

Rinse thoroughly before drying

Once you are done cleaning the bike with soap, rinsing the bike thoroughly will help any remaining soap or dirt to wash away. Don’t rush your way into wiping the surface, as you would probably have to stop midway, noticing those remaining bits of soap and dirt and having to rinse them. Once you have rinsed the bike properly, take a dry chamois or microfibre cloth to dry rub the motorcycle, wiping away the moisture and ensuring no water spots are left.

Choose a fast-apply method for wax and lube

Some methods to wax the surface of a motorcycle or to lube the chain are faster than others. For example, lubing the chain using a spray lubricant is much quicker than applying grease manually. Similarly, even polishes and waxes are available in spray form these days, which allow for more immediate application, a more even spread and better reach into the corners with detachable nozzles. Use a faster application method, and save yourself some time.

Five Tips To Make Your Bike Monsoon Ready

It is that time of the year again when you must be ready for a drizzle or a downpour and everything in between. Just like you prepare yourself to be rain-ready, your bike needs to be too. And whether you choose to brave the downpour and go for a ride or stay put until the weather clears, here are tips to ensure your motorcycle is monsoon-ready.

Tyres and brakes

Even when it is dry, tyres play a hero’s role in ensuring that the bike stays upright, and you stay safe while you are astride. However, when it rains, they have to handle the additional responsibility of channeling water through those grooves in order to maintain traction with the surface. Ensure there is ideal depth left in the tread of your bike’s tyres if you intend to ride while it rains. Additionally, if you have been contemplating a change of tyres all this while due to reasons related to age or wear, now is a good time. Regardless of whether you will be riding or parking your bike for the monsoons, ensure ideal tyre pressure is maintained. Invest in a handy gauge to keep a timely check on this aspect. Also, don’t skimp on quality, for a good pair of half -worn, sticky rubber is twice as good compared to cheaper hard compound rubber, even if it’s brand new.

Stopping distances are generally higher when the road surface is wet. But you have still got to stop, right? Make sure there’s enough life left in the brake pads for stopping power to be always available when you need it. En sure brake oil levels are maintained and if the levers or cables require any adjustment or replacement, get it done without second thoughts.

Battery and electricals

Electrical components and water have never been good friends. For this very reason, replace any cables or contact points that are showing signs of wear. If the bike’s battery is old and near the end of its life, replace it with a new unit to ensure there is a healthy charge available when you thumb the starter. This will drastically reduce your chances of being stranded on a rainy day.

When it rains, visibility becomes a challenge both for the rider and other road users. Check that all the lights, including the headlight, stop light, taillight, and indicators work as they should. Much as we hate to use it, horn is sometimes the last resort, and in the low visibility monsoon conditions, it can sometimes come handy. Make sure your bike’s horn can be heard loud and clear. Have the entire switchgear checked thoroughly, and replace or repair parts showing early signs of failure.

Cover up

If you will not be riding during the monsoons, try and park it in an area that’s covered. If that’s not possible, invest in a good rain cover and tie it down well. If you will be riding, avoid parking under the open sky. If you live or work in an area where flooding is common, park wisely and keep a check on weather warnings to take evasive action.

For the times you would be traveling to places you are not very familiar with, you can always invest in a compact bike cover. There are several brands which offer high quality covers, which pack away nice and small. Carry one along in a bag to ensure that your beloved bike is protected from water at all times.

Keep it clean

For the otherwise dusty conditions we live in, things become quite mucky when they mix with rain, and no matter what, there is no escaping riding through that mess. While it can get very annoying to keep your motorcycle clean and dry during the mucky monsoons, a little extra effort goes a long way in enhancing the longevity of your beloved machine. When things become dirty, it’s important that you give your bike a good wash and use pressure to hose down dirt that’s stubborn and won’t come off easily. While it might sound counterintuitive to give your bike another splash with the heavens already pouring down, it is important to dial-up the frequency of washes to deal effectively with the abrasive muck. After the muck has been washed off, make sure you leave your motorcycle dry. Even while traveling, keep a cloth handy to keep your bike as dry as possible, especially around areas like the fuel lid, switches, etc., where allowing water ingress is a strict no-no.

If your bike came fitted with a mud guard and you uninstalled it for aesthetic purposes, now is a good time to get it reinstalled. Not only will it make sure that the tyres don’t spray your own back in shades of brown, but it will also keep the one following you happy. Last, but not the least, is the drive chain. Keep it clean and well-lubricated at all times.

General Maintenance

If your bike is due for service, get it properly checked and serviced well before the onset of monsoons. If you think that it’s a good idea to get everything fixed once it stops raining, it’s not. The chances of any ongoing issues inflating into something bigger during this time are more. Top up all the fluids, get the chain slack checked and adjusted, get the brake lines bled if necessary and get the spark plugs checked as well. Remember, a short trip to the service station is always more preferable than being stranded on a flooded street while it’s pouring.

Riding In Hot Weather - Some Useful Tips

Be it monsoons, winters or summers, and there isn’t right or wrong weather when riding. While cool, dry weather is the first choice of a vast majority of riders, the riding bug doesn’t wait for the weather to turn favourable when it decides to bite you. Among the more challenging weathers to ride in, hot summers with the raging sun beating down relentlessly upon you are one of the most daunting. If you are planning any short or long rides in such challenging weather, you need to be well prepared, as riding in hot weather presents a relatively more significant challenge to your body. Here are some tips to help you stay comfortable and safe during those hot summer rides.

Choose your ride time smartly

Riding in summers means that you will mostly have clear weather and better visibility than in the monsoons and winters, which gives you a lot of flexibility to choose your riding hours. However, even when you have the flexibility, you should avoid riding during the hottest hours of the day. 12 noon to 3 P.M. is when the sun is the harshest, and the ambient temperature is atrociously high. It is best to take your mid-day breaks during this time if you are on a full-day ride. On shorter rides, plan the ride in a way that you reach your destination before the peak heat time. In order to beat the extreme sun, you will either need to leave early in the morning or ride post 3 P.M. for the most comfortable riding experience. For longer journeys, the best-case scenario will be to start your ride in the morning and halt for a lunch break around 12.30-1 P.M. for a leisurely meal coupled with an hour’s rest. You can resume your journey post 2.30-3.00 P.M. This long-ish break is not just for you, but for your ride too, as hot weather leads to the oil, coolant and engine temperatures shooting up significantly. Giving your ride the time to cool off will help it recuperate and partner you for the onward journey more reliably. For rides where you would return the same day, again, try following the aforementioned timings – reach your destination latest by 12.30-1 P.M. and then start your return journey by 2.30-3 P.M.

While not the most suitable in terms of visibility, the coolest hours to ride during hot summers are sans the sun. So, it isn’t a bad idea to make use of a couple of hours before daybreak to maximise your mileage. If you are a seasoned rider in the dark, adding a few hours of ride time to your journey after the sun goes down is the best way to beat the heat in summers.

Wear weather-appropriate gear

Now, just because you are riding in hot weather does not mean you can ride without proper riding gear. Choose hot weather appropriate riding gear which allows for a generous circulation of air while also keeping you safe. Textile riding gear with armour in vulnerable areas is ideal for summers. The first layer of the garment on your skin should be a wicking fabric that allows for quick evaporation of sweat. Also, when you are riding at speeds above 40-50 kmph you will not feel the heat as much thanks to the wind. It is in the stop-go traffic where the chances of you feeling skewered are the highest, so plan your ride in a manner where you can avoid the annoying city traffic and get onto the highway as quickly as possible. Leave the city during early hours and always take ring roads or by-passes for the cities that fall enroute. Keep the vents of your helmet wide open at all times and if your jacket and pants have vents, keep them open too. There are specialised cooling vests available for hot weather that keep you cooler for longer. It’s advisable to buy one and use it, as it’s incredibly effective against heat. The colour of your gear matters too, and it’s advisable to wear light coloured gear which reflects sunlight, rather than choosing dark coloured items which absorb heat and cause discomfort.

Eat smart

Hot weather isn’t a good time to indulge in greasy, spicy or heavy meals. Your body is constantly struggling to stay hydrated, and if you decide to stuff your tummy with food that’s difficult to digest, it will demand more water from the body for energy synthesis. By doing this, you would be paving the way for yourself to get uneasy and dehydrated. Keep your meals healthy, light, and hydrating. It’s advisable to have simple food which doesn’t demand much from the body in terms of digestion effort and offers a slow, sustained release of energy. Hydrating liquids like buttermilk, coconut water and fresh lemon water go a long way in keeping you hydrated and fresh. Salads containing hydrating veggies like cucumber, onion, carrots and tomatoes also help replenish your body with necessary salts, though make sure you have it from a place that procures and processes these raw vegetables hygienically. It’s also advisable to stop for an additional snack or meal break rather than loading yourself up with a heavy meal for long hauls while riding in hot weather.

Take off the gear during breaks

During breaks, ensure that you take off your heavy riding gear to let your body get some fresh air, allowing it to cool down effectively. It’s advisable to wear a fully-body wicking liner or moisture-wicking T-shirts and shorts inside the gear to take the riding gear off without feeling odd or embarrassed. Take off those riding boots as well to let your heels cool off.

Apply sunscreen and invest in quality eyewear

While hot weather takes its toll on the entire body, it’s the face and eyes that bear the additional brunt of hot weather’s harshness, as they are more exposed to the sun than other parts of the body. Make sure that you apply an effective sunblock on the exposed parts of your body before you set out for your ride. Quality eyewear that protects eyes from heat, UV rays and brightness without hampering visibility should also be invested in.

Stay hydrated

A hydration pack is a must. You need to hydrate yourself as frequently as possible. Invest in a good hydration pack so that you can keep sipping on water while you are riding. Also, stick to drinking plain water as much as possible, as drinking sugary energy drinks or coffee will consume more water from the body to be processed and do more damage than good. You can also add a dash of oral rehydration salts to the water in your hydration pack for additional protection against a loss of electrolytes from the body.

Take more frequent breaks

You might be an endurance rider and may not experience fatigue as early as others. However, riding in hot weather with the sun beating down upon you is extremely dangerous. Even the most seasoned hot weather riders risk getting hit by heat exhaustion or even a stroke if they are not careful. It’s always better to take a short break earlier than usual, get some air, let your body cool down and rehydrate. Not only does it allow your body to get some rest and recuperate, but it also lets your bike catch a breath. Motorcycles tend to heat up faster during summers, and riding in such conditions for long durations is not suitable for the engine’s health. The tyres, too, need a breather to cool down so that they don’t overheat and keep providing you optimal grip.

Look out for signs of heatstroke or exhaustion

Heat strokes and severe heat exhaustion can hit you very sneakily. Do not ever try to ride in hot conditions if you are not comfortable. Be wary of early signs of a heat stroke or over exhaustion like headache, tiredness, cramps, nausea and red patches on the skin. If you are not feeling well even a wee bit, don’t think twice before finding the first place where you could find some shelter and comfort. Take some rest, rehydrate yourself, and don’t move any further unless you feel well. Heat strokes can turn fatal very quickly, and as a responsible rider, you need to take ample precautions to prevent yourself from turning into a victim.

Keep your motorcycle fighting fit

It goes without saying that the health of your motorcycle is essential before you set out for a ride in challenging conditions. To accomplish a successful ride in punishing hot weather, you need to ensure that your two-wheeler has been duly serviced and all its components are working the way they should. Before you begin your summer ride, ensure that the engine oil has not been overused and has been replaced in a timely fashion. Check all the vital fluids, and top them up, especially if you are going on a long ride. This holds especially true for the coolant if you own a liquid-cooled motorcycle. Avoid riding too aggressively as the engine oil has to work a lot harder when you are riding hard, and during hot weather, the chances of the entire system overheating and breaking on you are much higher.

Check the tyres’ health as well and ensure that the tread has not worn off. Maintain proper tyre pressure and do not overinflate, as the air expands in hot weather and might cause tyre bursts. Fill the tyres with Nitrogen if possible as tyres with Nitrogen run much cooler. Carry a puncture kit for those unexpected flats. Do not fill the fuel tank to the brim, let there be room for 1-2 litres of fuel. It is okay if you have to stop more for fuel, as taking more breaks in hot weather is actually better for you and the motorcycle.

Summer riding can be fun, as the traffic during hot weather is sparse and visibility is good which allows you to cover a lot of ground very quickly. As long as you are careful and take proper safety measures, you will enjoy your rides and have a really good experience. Always gear up, adhere to the speed limits and follow all the traffic rules. Ride safe!

Quick Guide to Using Common Adjustability Features on Your Motorcycle

The modern-day motorcycle comes loaded with a ton of features. There is a new feature introduced in terms of mechanicals, convenience, or connected tech with every new launch. OEMs are also striving to equip their machines with adjustability features that allow users to tweak their rides as per their liking and needs. While still not readily available on all mainstream motorcycles, these features enable users to customise or adjust their ride experience based on their specific requirements. Here in this article, we are listing down some of these adjustability features and their benefits.

Adjustable levers

Most motorcycles come equipped with two levers on the handle. The left one is to engage the clutch, while the right is for the front brakes. Usually, both these levers have a standard position. This standard position, however, might not be suitable for all riders. Riders with longer fingers might find the position too close to the handle, while those with shorter fingers might find them too far to reach. If the reach is not proper, the rider’s grip on the levers will be very uncomfortable, degrading the riding experience. In some cases, not engaging the levers properly could also lead to a mishap.

Some motorcycles come equipped with span adjusters for levers to overcome this problem. To give you an example, TVS Motor Company’s TVS Apache 200 4V and TVS Apache RR 310 motorcycles come equipped with span adjusters for the levers. The TVS Apache 200 4V, for example, gets 3-step adjustable levers that can be adjusted without any additional tools. There is a knob on each lever with markers for the lever position for most such adjusters. You can simply rotate the knob to change the levers’ position and increase or decrease the reach based on your comfort. This is a convenient feature as it can make riding more comfortable and reduce stress on your fingers.

Preload adjustable suspension

Gone are the days when you had to stick with the stock suspension setup for your motorcycle. A whole bunch of motorcycles offer preload adjustability these days. Preload adjustment allows a rider to play with the sag or ride height of a bike to make it suitable for the load or weight the person intends to ride with. For example, a heavier rider would do well to reduce the preload, while it would generally be more advisable for a lighter rider to increase the preload. Preload is also beneficial when one plans to ride with luggage or with a pillion rider to make up for the additional weight the motorcycle has to carry.

As mentioned above, many motorcycles come equipped with preload adjustment for the rear suspension in both twin-shock and mono-shock setups. In most preload-adjustable rear suspensions, one can easily adjust the setting using a shock adjustment spanner or wrench. As the suspension adjuster is moved right or left, the preload on the suspension is increased or decreased. Based on one’s requirements, this could be easily adjusted, and one can note the values for future reference.

THE TWO EXCEPTIONS IN THAT CONTEXT ARE the TVS Apache RTR 200 and the TVS Apache RR 310. Both these motorcycles offer preload adjustability on their front suspension. While preload adjustment for the rear suspension is a relatively common feature, almost no mainstream motorcycle provides it as an option for the front suspension in India. One needs only a simple tool like a screwdriver or spanner to adjust the preload on the front suspension. Based on the number of stops or steps available, one can adjust the preload simply by turning the screw or nut clockwise or counterclockwise. For example, while on the TVS Apache RTR 200 4V, the preload is adjusted using a screwdriver, on the TVS Apache RR 310, where you also have compression and rebound damping, you have to use a spanner. It’s easy to have the task accomplished in both cases, and sometimes, you can even use the motorcycle’s key or a coin in place of the screwdriver to carry out the adjustments.

Compression and rebound damping

While preload adjustability on the front suspension is a rarity on everyday motorcycles, when it comes to compression and rebound damping, the feature is almost non-existent on Indian motorcycles. The exception, again, is the TVS Apache RR 310, which offers both compression and rebound damping on the front suspension and rebound damping on the rear unit. Adjusting compression and rebound damping on the front suspension is as simple as turning a screw head in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction. The rest is up to the rider as to what setting suits his needs or requirements. So, while preload essentially has to do with the ride height or sag, damping adjustment can tweak a motorcycle to make it more suitable for use in various environments like streets, rough roads, or tracks. A rider can fine-tune his suspension based on how sporty or absorbent he wants it to be. The damping essentially is the rate at which compression or rebound happens. A rider can experiment and play around to find the best suitable setup for the environment they intend to ride in.

The adjustments for compression and rebound damping on the TVS Apache RR 310’s front fork can be made with a simple tool such as a screwdriver, and there are as many as 20 steps to choose from. The rear suspension system on the motorcycle also offers a 20-step rebound damping adjustability. The TVS Apache RR 310’s rear mono-shock can be adjusted for rebound damping by twisting the circular dial on the shocks. Interestingly the system at the rear does not require any additional tools and can be adjusted using the motorcycle’s standard key itself.

Adjustable riding modes

Riding modes have become all the rage on motorcycles of all sizes in recent times. This technology allows the rider to control the motorcycle’s performance and braking to suit the bike’s environment. While there isn’t a set rule to classify riding modes, they are often named Urban/City, Sport and Rain/Wet. Here’s a broad explanation of what these modes are meant for.

Urban: This is often the default riding mode and will have a balanced power delivery and throttle response, along with moderate levels of ABS intervention.

Sport: This mode de-restricts the power delivery, enables sharper throttle response and allows ABS to cut in at a relatively later stage.

Rain: Meant for wet, low traction, slippery conditions, this mode blunts down throttle response and cuts down on power to prevent wheelspin. The ABS also cuts in very early in this mode to prevent wheels from locking up and breaking traction.

In essence, riding modes allow you to change the character of your motorcycle at the flick of a button. Motorcycles like the TVS Apache RTR 200 4V come equipped with the modes explained above. More advanced machines like the TVS Apache RR 310 have additional modes such as a ‘Track’ mode which offers even quicker throttle response and the least possible ABS intervention.

Having customisation options is a boon on motorcycles to wrap it all up. It allows a rider to tinker with various settings to get the best riding experience. If you don’t believe in the concept of one-size-fits-all, do consider buying a motorcycle that comes with a fair degree of adjustability. Ride safe!